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Marie Jost
舞蹈家, 笔者
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Rage Against the (Fashion) Machine

Word is out—this season the in-shoes have heels that begin at 4 inches and climb to the vertiginous (and truly unwalkable height) of 6 inches.  Couple a 6 inch stiletto with a 2 inch platform and it’s a wonder any woman can walk from her bedroom to a waiting cab.  The argument is being bruited about, yet again, that these super high heels represent power dressing.  Give me a break.  Any man who sees a woman hobbling and tottering around on such footwear, while he strides boldly and firmly through the world will hardly see Ms. Fashion Victim as powerful, and never as an equal.  No, and in addition to the toxic footwear, she will be encased in an outfit that broadcasts some (male) designer’s fetishistic preoccupation with the female form, be it S&M, prostitution, porn, the ravages of drug addiction, domestic violence, etc.  I think you get my drift.

Magazine editors, stylists and fashion photographers are also hardly opting out of the club that seems determined to demean women every chance they get.  We get fashion spreads that double as necrophilia/snuff, Vampirella, pedophilia, or a glamorization of self-imposed starvation.  Not only models, but even well-known and established female film stars cannot pull off a shoot just being themselves any more, they have to be restyled as look-alikes of Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Sofia Loren, Ava Gardner, Debbie Harry, etc. 

There are many very talented people working in the fashion industry.  It isn’t that hard to sift through the crap and see the real value of a lot of what gets proposed by designers season after season.  At the level of couture, there can a dedication to craft that rises to the level of art.  So what went wrong that we see some of the most extreme and demeaning elements pushed as this season’s “fashion message” to women?  The magazine editors are women, they set editorial policy for their rags, why don’t they have greater respect for their readers who are not only mostly female, but also mostly under the age of 30?

Another disturbing trend is the over-reliance on Photoshop to take attractive women and make them look like the kind of airbrushed babes that used to be the purview of science fiction illustration not so many years ago.  The degree of enhancing and “perfecting” of photographic images before they are submitted for publication can be terrifying if you are a woman.  No one can nor ever will look like the women we see in magazines today.  These images have created a market for females that literally are no longer products of nature, whom you will never see walking down the street.  The bar has been raised to an impossible standard.  No matter how good a woman looks (and most never approach that sort of attractiveness) she can never, ever look as good as one of those photoshopped images.  It is quite literally impossible.  She can visit all of the plastic surgeons, dermatologists, and personal trainers she wants, but she can never approach the perfection that now gluts fashion publications.  We are way beyond old school air-brushing here.  Facial proportions, body proportions and so much more can now be altered by a few clicks of the mouse.  See enough of these images and real women, even very beautiful women, look imperfect and clunky in comparison.  It is hardly a mystery why women hate the way they look so much.  The fashion industry has created a perpetual market for itself in the hundreds of millions of women who look at these manipulated images and hope against hope that if they just use the right face cream, purchase the right designer gear, buy the right pair of shoes, sign up for the right trainer, that they can fool us into thinking that they are fashionable and beautiful--according to the latest limited and limiting standards--and that their insecurities about appearing sexually attractive to the opposite sex will be magically fixed.

I guess my one hope is that these things come in cycles.  The last period of so much artificiality in women’s fashion was post World War II to the mid-1960s.  The backlash, when it arrived, brought us the natural look of the late 60s and 70s, with its rejection of constricting undergarments (I still remember long-line bras (never wore one, thank God) and girdles with garters attached (did wear them and all I can say is, ouch!)).  I reached adulthood in the no make-up, wash and wear Vidal Sassoon hair days.  Wearing a bra was optional, designer labels were for your grandmother and her blue-haired bridge-playing friends.  Fashion came from the streets, not from a handful of snooty fashion tyrants in Paris, New York, London and Milan.  If such a dramatic reaction was engendered by the rather tame fashion idiocies of that earlier era, I tremble in fear to think what the reaction will be to the current lunacy that passes for fashion in this day and age.  If the world economy really is headed for a crash, no one will have the money to buy designer duds, anyway.  (Did you know you can hardly touch a designer dress for under US$6,000, and most “special” designer pieces are priced in the tens of thousands of US dollars?)  I have noticed in recent months an ever dwindling number of shoppers at the usual commercial emporia in my town.  Most people have looked at their closets this fall and see that they have enough clothes to manage to dress decently for every occasion that presents itself.  The majority of people are going to make due with what they already have.  A lot of my friends (granted we can’t afford to wear designer clothes) are talking about making due with less by simply not replacing all of their items of clothing as they either wear out (gasp, I know this isn’t fashionable, to wear something until you wear it out!) or go hopelessly out of fashion.  More and more people are hitting the thrift stores to fill in the gaps and find clothes for work when something really must be purchased.  Most people are taking stock of what they really need.  With this more practical attitude towards shopping and the amassing of articles of clothing, perhaps a self-correction, akin to that the stock market has been undergoing in recent weeks is underway.  Some fashion houses, like some banks and investment houses, may falter and fall by the wayside.  Consumers are beginning to ask some hard questions of their consumption-driven lifestyle.  If the Titanic that is the fashion industry does not read the signs in time to make a significant course correction, it may join GM as a once proud industry mainstay that has become irrelevant to the new global realities that appear poised to sweep away much that we took for granted, but was never more than smoke and mirrors.  As far as fashion is concerned, I only have this to say:  Vive la revolution!

大约 16 年 前 0 赞s  13 评论s  0 shares
Paulinec 1a img 1269
You gotta have a sense of humor when it comes to fashion. Hiding behind all of the "tools", props whatever you wanna call them.. can make many of the audience feel good about themselves. Some peeps need that perk at the beginning of each day... or before that important meeting. Not all have the self confidence there. It is the simple fact that a color that you choose to wear that day can change a mood...almost like a self help book.. that business is on fire. Thinking of fashion to help lift the spirits. Sure many get sucked into the crazy cycle of consumerism.. but it maybe a counter reaction to all of the other craziness that is going on in the world out there.. that many feel that they cannot control nor do much to change.. not everyone is so brave. What one choses to adorn oneself is something for those that do care and one element that they can possibly control in their day to day lives. The cycle is absolutely nuts.
大约 16 年 ago
Mariejost 26 dsc00460
Well, ladies, Isn't it funny how we all agree the shoes are Ridiculous (with a capital R). What is sad is that I saw a vid over on time.com that had the manager of the shoe dept at Saks 5th Avenue in NYC promoting just this pair of pumps as the be-all and end-all shoe of the season. Yet, as ridiculous as these shoes are, fashion doesn't have to be ridiculous. Designers (at all levels of the retail food chain) can and do design really wearable, interesting clothes that suit different body types, ages, styles, etc. My greatest complaint against the fashion media is that they bypass most of these items in favor of the extremes, and so bias the stores against carrying the more wearable stuff in favor of the trendier pieces. Melly--good for you, a fashion coup at Goodwill. It happens, for sure. Scarlett--somehow I doubt you're a fashion nightmare--you're far too artistically inclined to not have an eye for style. I bet you have your own inimitable style others only wish they had. Flagday--what set me on fire? trying to buy a pair of "comfortable shoes". I ended up with a 3-inch pair of heels, because that is what is now marketed as comfort footwear. (I guess with horrors like the pump I illustrated, yes, a 3-inch heel suddenly looks like the height of comfort.) Also, I've been doing a lot of shopping, looking at all the new fall stuff in the stores, trying on one thing after another, and coming to the sad conclusion, that, for yet another season, there is very, very little out there that suits my body type, my own personal sense of fashion and, most notably, my age. Yeah, I'm fifty, so I can't dress like I'm 25 or 30, but neither do I want to dress like I'm 70. The fashion industry has somehow forgot about us baby boomers--however many millions strong we are. Pauline C--I've pretty much given up on buying clothes this season, at least anything that follows current fashions. Yesterday I attired myself in black exercise pants, a long black tunic-hoodie and a purple tee with a nice jade pendant. It wasn't exactly cutting edge fashion, and it sure was cheap (the entire outfit, including the jade, came in (new) at US$50. The pants and top were exercise wear from Walmart, the tee was from Kohls (my new favorite place to shop since they debuted the Vera Wang line) and the jade was from Marshall's. I am definitely creating my own style--but I keep wondering, is it fashion? Because I can't really wear anything that is cutting edge fashionable this season, I'm pretty much making it up as I go, putting it together as the mood strikes me and as I figure out different ways to put together the clothes I already have. I have been buying a lot of accessories, especially jewelery. This has been an especially good last 12 months for jewelery as I have stumbled on some really unusual stuff from China--recycled mahjong tiles, recycled Qing Dynasty jade buttons, molded glass beads from India and things like that. Black is such a good canvas for unusual and even unique jewelry. It feels like the 80s all over again (minus the clown make-up, however).
大约 16 年 ago
Mariejost 26 dsc00460
Yo Sista' (aka Flagday) Yeah, more of the same in that vid in terms of those "timber" moments. What got me riled up and finally got me to write the blog was 2 pieces over a time.com here is the print article: http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1846719,00.html I can't get a direct link to the video about the shoes that are, literally, the height of ridiculous, so be sure and look for the video link to the left of the print article. You will see why I finally lost it big time! My next blog will be about hand-crafted accessories and other goodies made by marvelous artisans. It will take me a while to find the goods on-line and get all the photos uploaded. If money (and space) was not the object, I know of about 6 things I'd be ordering. As it is, I'll just blog about them and maybe somebody else with deeper pockets will check out this amazing collection and help support these very talented artisans.
大约 16 年 ago
Photo 34128
Always a bit timid about commenting where no other male has dared to post, but I will say it is interesting, especially considering who did comment. Thanks.
大约 16 年 ago
Mariejost 26 dsc00460
Butter votes for sanity in women's apparel! Good for you. I guess my beef isn't so much with the designers. They design a wide range of different things each season because they know they have to be commercial (to some extent--this varies with the designer). My problem is with who decides what is "fashionable" each season. This is not the designers, really; no, it is the fashion media, in particular the major fashion rags in France, Italy and the US. It is these pubs that pick through what the designers propose and then select the "hot trends" that trickle all the way down to the cheapest ready to wear. I don't mind a fantasy fashion spread now and then (see Charlie, I don't dislike everything you post on your blog :-)), but this has to be the exception and not the rule. Us ordinary folks who buy mid to low-priced ready to wear depend on the media to select trends that have legs, so to speak, trends that can be translated into different bodies, lifestyles and age groups. Low rise jeans (a youth trend that had no business being integrated into adult lines, and then staying there for 10 years!) and baby doll tops should not be mainstream fashion trends for adult women over 25. Yet, we have had 10 years of low-rise jeans (which look absolutely horrible on any woman who is not a little bit underweight or over 35) and a summer, fall and now winter of the baby doll top. The short, extremely boxy jacket is another trend that doesn't favor women with an hourglass shape (the way nature made most of us and the way men (the hetero variety, anyway) like us). So, faced with buying a few tops or a jacket, I give up in disgust after yet another fruitless search for clothes that suit my body type and head for the accessories. But how many years can I keep tricking out the same clothes with new accessories before they simply must be replaced? I have my fingers crossed that the current unwearable styles will have gone out of fashion and been replaced by things I do, in fact, look good in. Then watch out, I'll be burning up the plastic buying the "woman-friendly" styles in as many variations as my pocketbook will bear. It just won't be this year.
大约 16 年 ago
Photo 34128
First of all, let me say that what I am hearing is a market segment (possibly a huge one) that is not being satisfied. Are you listening designers? Second, thank you for welcoming a male opinion on these matters, but I've long since learned that it is impossible to speak for half the population and that my views are probably not even in the majority. I'm from Oregon, and not the fashion conscious part either. If I understand correctly, you live in NYC or thereabouts. From what I know from friends who have lived there, it is very fashion conscious. Perhaps you are living in the wrong part of the country although my mom says she too has a difficult time finding anything to buy. Anyway, for me, what you wear comes down to that nugget Shakespeare penned in Hamlet, "To thine own self be true." If that means you must construct your own wardrobe (in Asia tailoring is comparatively inexpensive), then do it. If you are comfy in the same clothes year after year, wear them with a smile. And, God forbid, you want to wear those back breaking stilettos, I hope they suit you. It takes all kinds, and maybe the fashion police will live to believe that too. I saw one episode of Project Runway where Tim Gunn said you should never let anyone dictate to you what you should wear. I don't follow fashion (disclosure: I have seen a few episodes of such programs and follow a few blogs here by people in the industry) but I did appreciate Tim for that. So there you go. Now if you will excuse me, I'm going to go change into a slightly less cheap T-shirt before going out to dinner.
大约 16 年 ago
Mariejost 26 dsc00460
Hi Chris, Thanks for stepping up to the plate and sharing your thoughts on fashion with the women!! First off, let me just set the record straight by saying that I don't live in New York, or any other great fashion metropolis for that matter. No I live in the Triangle area of North Carolina, total population for three cities combined of around 1 million. My town, Chapel Hill, has a population of about 75,000. I am also not Southern by birth which, if you know anything about Southern women, means that I don't subscribe to a certain view of fashion that is uniquely Southern. Visit Atlanta sometime and take a look at how the well-heeled women are dressed, you'll know lickety-split that you're in the South buy the style of the hair, clothes and jewelery. It is a style, just not my style. I certainly subscribe to your fashion dictum--be true to yourself. I guess my biggest complaint is that it is easier to do some seasons than others. After years of trying out a lot of different options, I have finally hit upon what looks good on me, what I like and (most importantly) what I can afford to spend on clothes (believe me, it is minuscule compared to what a lot of people do and can spend). The challenge is satisfying all of those elements when I go shopping. Some years, it has been a piece of cake and I have bought a lot of things to wear. Other years, like the past 2 or 3, have been much, much leaner. The funny thing is, I like clothes, shoes, and accessories just as much this year and last as I did the years I bought a lot of clothing. But my desires have been, mostly, unfulfilled. I guess my personal style (and body type, too) had their few seasons when they were in fashion. Now--the long, dark winter of being innately unfashionable, and the consequent reduced options when it comes time to look for apparel. I thought we lived in a consumer society? What happens when the consumers want to spend, but can't find anything they want to spend their money on? I guess now we are drifting off into the realm of economics. Fashion and Wall Street--I guess only on my blog. Then again--open my media cabinet and see all of the DVDs of Hong Kong films I have bought in the past year and you will see where all the money I haven't spent on clothes has gone. :-)
大约 16 年 ago

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In Memoriam Leslie Cheung 1956-2003 Our Leslie, beautiful like a flower. I love you today and always-- a part of my heart beats for you alone, tonight a

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January 26, 2008