Perfumes of the Arabian Nights

Many years ago, I stumbled across the most incredible perfume essence oils.  They are make in Tangiers, Morocco by the Madini family and incorporate a tradition of perfume-making that is probably over a thousand years old.  Currently over 100 different preparations are available, and new scents are introduced and old ones retired (though I hope not permanently).  Unlike traditional commercial perfumes, these perfume essences are formulated in an oil, not an alcohol base.  This gives the perfume staying power unlike anything you will get out of an atomizer.  Typically, Madini perfumes go on strong and, as the top notes evaporate, the rich mid-notes come to the fore and seduce for upwards of 6 hours, while the whisper of skin-warmed base notes linger into the next day.  Also, unlike traditional alcohol-based perfumes, the Madini perfumes are constantly changing character as the ingredients interact with body chemistry and body heat.  As an example, today I was wearing their Fez fragrance for the first time, described as “the finest Moroccan florals:  rose and neroli (orange blossoms) fixed with vetyvert and santal blanc”.  Upon first applying the oil, the neroli really jumped out, as well as the vetyvert.  But, after several hours, the rose became more and more prominent and went through a number of transformations, before finally fading away to a whisper.  I applied the perfume a 7:30 a.m. and it peaked in complexity at 2 p.m.!  I was submerged in an olfactory experience for 6 hours that was practically orgasmic in its sensuality and intensity.

Another favorite is Olive Flowers, an amber-citrus essence with exotic resins such as frankincense and opoponax.  The citrus is the top note and, once it burns off (that took about 4 hours), the resins really come to the fore.  The sweetness of the amber became stronger and stronger as the day wore on and the bitterness of the frankincense was tempered.  I’m not sure where the opoponax was in the mix.  I was smelling another resiny scent that was new to me, so that must have been the opoponax.  Eventually, the amber came to dominate, again about 6 hours after first applying the perfume, before everything faded into a mellow echo of all of the constituent parts.

But, as lovely as Madini’s floral and spicy fragrances are, it is their musks that are their forte.  When my parcel arrived on Tuesday, it was the Musk Gazelle that was the first uncorked.  This musk is rich, full-bodied and dark:  very dark.  This is a musk to be work with furs, leather and cashmere.  Now, in the heat and humidity of summer, I have been hesitant to put it on.  I don’t want to create havoc at work wearing shorts, a tunic and sandals and this intense musk.  Somehow that seems like using a howitzer when a B-B gun will due.  Saturday I’ll try a light application and see how it goes.  If it's too heavy and pervasive, since I’ll be home alone most of the day only the cat will take issue.  The lighter and brighter White Musk was a universal hit at work a few days ago.  It tempers the darkness and slight bitterness of the musk with lighter florals and some resins.  Maybe that will be my summertime fragrance.  Well, that and Fez.  I had such a wonderful time wearing Fez today that I just reapplied it after dinner to enjoy it until bedtime.  It will perfume my pillow tonight and I can enjoy it in the nights to come while I drift off to sleep.  But I have to wonder what dreams it will inspire.

History of Madini Oils (from www.madini.com)

The history of the Madini oils begins with the Hariris, an eminent Saudi Arabian family who were perfumers and silk traders for centuries in the city of Medina. When Moulay Hafid, a Moroccan sultan, married into the Hariri family around the turn of the century, several members of the Hariri family came to Tangiers, Morocco, where they established an enduring reputation for producing the finest perfumes. There they were known as the Madinis, meaning "the ones who came from Medina." The centuries-old tradition they represented flourished in Morocco, which is known for its excellent and varied flora. In the Madini family, the art of creating, blending, and applying essential oils is handed down from generation to generation and involves a lengthy and arduous apprenticeship. The olfactory sensibilities required are extraordinary, because many of the creations incorporate miniscule amounts of rare essences that must harmonize with other dominant fragrances. The information is transmitted verbally, and requires a direct and intimate experience with all the nuances of the perfumer's art. The current head of the Madini family, Suleiman, practiced under the direction of his father, Sherif Ibrahim Madini, for over fifteen years before assuming his leadership responsibilities.

Hidden among the maze of dark passageways of Tangiers' notorious marketplace is a doorway to a tiny shop, no bigger than a closet, really. International film stars, European royalty, fashion cognoscenti, and big-city journalists have passed through this doorway. For it is here that Suleiman Madini sells the perfume essences of centuries-old family tradition. Outside, veiled women haggle prices over blaring Moroccan music, children push, and men deal. Inside, the spirit rejoices to the heady mix of natural, essential fragrances meant to invoke the dreams of angels.

Dulce Roppenecker, founder of Talisman (importer and distributor of Madini oils in the US), came upon this place while visiting Tangiers at the age of 21. The deep connection she found with the Madini family is spiritual and personal first; the business part came quite a bit later. She was inspired to apprentice herself to the healing art of traditional perfumery by the qualities and presence of Ibrahim Madini, the elder master of the family. During regular extended stays in Morocco, she studied with him for a period of years. A turning point came when, while back in the US, Dulce had a vivid and powerful dream one night, a dream which strongly affirmed her strong connection with the Madini family, and indicated she should go further with her work with them. When she called the Madini family to tell them of the dream, they gave her the news that her mentor, the elder Ibrahim Madini, had passed away that very night. The Madini family took this dream as an important omen, one which confirmed the validity and sincerity of her involvement with their family and tradition. Later, it was decided that Dulce would be allowed to make the Madini oils available worldwide. At last! The secret is out!