India, Act II - From Tigers to James Bond

Not satisfied with the amount of driving that we had undertaken from New Delhi to Agra and Agra to Jaipur ( see previous post), we loaded up the four vehicles and set out on a three-hour drive for Ranthombore National Park – tiger country.  Perhaps, in an alternative universe, it would have taken three hours, but in reality-based driving, the road-trip lasted five hours, three of which were on a road laden with ruts and jarring potholes.

Potholes, ruts and even sheep slowed our progress to Ranthambore National ParkWe arrived in time to settle into our rooms (mine was the size of our Beijing apartment), have a simple buffet lunch and get changed for our afternoon jeep drive in search of tigers.  We departed the hotel in three jeeps, each with a driver and park guide.  Our guide talked a good game, but I noticed it was the driver who usually pointed out things to the guide who then relayed the information to us.  Some of you may recall my journey last summer to shoot a documentary in East Africa ( click here to view).  While in Kenya, we spent three full days on safari in the Masai Mara, each day seeing lions and enough other wild animals to fill a zoo.  I did see a number of impressive beasts and fowls at Ranthombore, but it is much harder to spot wildlife in a jungle than in grasslands.  The driver did manage to locate some recent tiger tracks on the road, but we saw neither hide nor hair of the beast that made it.  Note: when a jeep stops in tiger territory to allow for the inspection of a recently made tiger paw print, don’t jump out to get a better photo.   You never know where that man-eater may be lurking.

Speaking of ruts, this young buck was on the verge of harassing these females

The tiger took the park rule about leaving only footprints to heart

They were warning us on the way in: hear no tiger, see no tiger, speak no tiger, but they were on a break

Having reveled in the wildlife we did spot, we returned to the hotel for showers and a feast with live music.  One man played a three or four stringed instrument while a girl periodically danced.  The music would have been tolerable, but every other song he played was Frère Jacques – may I never hear it again!  In the end, we had to pay…I mean tip him…to stop playing at our table – a cunning ploy.

Our hotel just outside Ranthombore National Park

There was a morning tiger trip, but like the predawn awakening for the Taj Majal, I opted to get some extra shuteye.  Those who went did enjoy the morning, especially the birds, but the tigers remained elusive.

And then it was back on the road to Jaipur.  This time, one of our drivers said he knew an alternative route with a smoother road that would save some time too.  It was smoother, but alas, it still took five hours.  The real plus was driving down some tiny roads and through a few little villages where the people were surprised when our little caravan pull over for a few minutes for a stretch and some photos.

At least this slow road to Jaipur was a smooth one

Stopping in a small village, I was amused to see a mobile rug store

We arrived in Jaipur late for lunch and the first of three NGO meetings, arranged by the United Nations Population Fund (UNFPA).  They too were under the perception it was only a three-hour drive.  Soldiering on, we had a quick briefing and then visited a local health clinic before moving on to meet with the women of the Rajasthan University Women’s Association whom, among their other achievements, founded Shakti Stambh, “a project that provides free shelter, boarding, lodging, medical and psychological advice and treatment, training and rehabilitation to distressed shelter-less women who are victims of social, family and parental exploitation and suppression.”  They also provide police assistance and legal advice.  All this is accomplished on a shoestring budget.  In my experience, it is rare to find any organization that can accomplish so much with so little.

This modest NGO was started by a handful of educated, strong willed women who recognized the injustice in the legal system for women and decided to create a place where abused women could seek shelter while also trying to have their day in court.  It is difficult work as the judicial system is disastrous; over 95% of the cases do not go in favor of the brave women who stand up for their legal rights.  Still, they are raising awareness and keeping as many women safe as they can accommodate at their small shelter.

Our arrival at Shakti Stambh woman's shelter

Seated in the back are the women from Rajasthan University Women's Association who started the shelter

We checked in to the Raj Palace Hotel with only 11 hours before our morning flight to Udaipur, not even enough time to play chess on the giant set outside my room; drats!

Bidding goodbye to driving, the next morning we flew to Udaipur.  Built around a series of lakes and sumptuous Rajput-era palaces including one that covers an entire island called the Lake Palace, Udaipur is often referred to as the City of Lakes.  Finally, after days of non-stop travel, we had an afternoon to vegetate and relax.  Naturally, everyone opted for a visit to one of the Hindu temples and for a tour of the largest palace.  We arrived in time for the afternoon worship service at Jagdish Temple, however cameras were not permitted inside.  Then it was a walk up a short hill to the City Palace Museum; a sprawling complex that is so large, two luxury hotels have been carved out of it.  The Palace Museum was still so enormous that after two hours, we had only visited about half of it and had to abandon our tour in search of food.

Photogenically dressed men and women were strategically hanging around Jagdish Temple in hopes of money for nice photos

The main structure of Jagdish Temple - no pictures inside

A lone hawk, right, kept circling the temple and spooking all the pidgeons

Female construction works still manage to wear bright colors to work

All kinds of ouvenirs can be purchased, even "old" wooden horses

Picturesque view of Udaipur from atop the Palace Museum

The crown jewel of Udaipur, the Palace Museum

It was here, in this lovely town that I had my…unique massage experience ( click here for the post).  As infamous as that may eventually become, Udaipur was thrust into the global limelight when a certain international spy by the name of Bond, James Bond, landed there in 1983 in hot pursuit of some bad guy and, no doubt, a bevy of buxom bikini clad octopus babes.  I would impart more on the story, but it has been so long since I saw Octopussy, ala Roger Moore, that I’ve blocked out most of it.  However, should you tour the town, one bar does have a showing every night at 7:00, of course. For better or worse, Octopussy was filmed almost entirely in Udaipur.

On our last day in Udaipur, we visited a school for a presentation about their Life Skills Education Program.  They greeted us with simple bracelets made of red yarn, red paint and rice on our foreheads, sugar for our mouths and, as we passed over the threshold, senior boys on the second story rained rose petals on our heads as female guards provided a high-step marching escort to the meeting hall.  Though scheduled for 90 minutes, the event lasted hours as students danced and demonstrated yoga while officials gave speeches and presentations and gifts were exchanged.  Reluctantly, I pulled out delegation out so we could get on to some health clinics where staff were awaiting us, but the students were hugging delegates, offering kisses to the ladies and wishing we would all stay longer.

We were greeted with style at the school with the Life Skills Education Program

This young girl performed a flawless five minute Rajesthan traditional dance

When our day was finished, we took a sunset boat ride on one of Udaipur's many lakes

Undoubtedly, 007's forgotten getaway ride

The tranquil waters reflect the calm environment in town

Lay, Christopher Lay, licensed to shoot and appearing with red paint on his head

Eventually, our last night in town ended on the lakeshore looking across to the illuminated City Palace Museum and the Lake Palace seemingly floating in the middle of the water.  A tranquil ending that belied the chaos of sights, sounds and smells awaiting us in Calcutta.  Stay tuned….

A lone fisherman continues to try his luck on the lake even as night aproaches

The Palace Museum and Hotel from our lakside table at our last meal in Udaipur